Rafed English

Returning from Mashhad

We stayed in Mashhad-e-Muqadas for about 35 days in complete comfort. Temperature those days was 85 Fahrenheit in the day and 70 Fahrenheit at night, even though it was summer. On Sunday, September 12, 1926 we started from Mashhad for Bombay. Even though we were there for so much time we were not willing to leave this glorious place. At last with a heavy heart, we began our return journey. As long as it was visible we did not move our eyes away from the shining gold dome. The cars and lorries used earlier were again hired for Rupees 975. The average per passenger came upto Rupees 78. Lengthy descriptions will not be necessary now as we would be passing through the same places described earlier. We went past Sharifabaad after 2 hours of travelling. After 15 minutes we came across 2 paths, one going to Duzdaab (Zahedan) and the other going to Tehran. A canal flows here beneath trees where travellers sit for rest if need be. We sat here for lunch. Temperature then was 72 Fahrenheit. We left the place at 2:30 P.M. and by evening we had entered hilly terrain. Subsequently temperature fell to 65 Fahrenheit. Roads were good so we entered Turbat-e-Hayderi at 8:00 P.M. We proceeded without halt here and reached Meena at 10:00 P.M. dined and slept. Next morning (September 13, 1926) at 7:00 A.M. We left for Gunabaad and reached there at 10:15 A.M. There was no water between Meena and Gunabaad. Here we rested for half an hour by a flowing and reached Khizri at 1:00 P.M. After our meal at 2:15 P.M., we started for Kaaen which we crossed at 5:00 P.M., driving through the mountains we arrived at Sandeh at 9:00 P.M. The temperature was 55 Fahrenheit but pleasant. We purchased some eggs here, priced at 1 Karaan for 20 eggs (4 annas Indian).

The next morning we left at 7:30 A.M. and reached Birjand at 10:30 A.M.. We purchased from a restaurant rice, curry, curd, etc., lunched and reached Sardbeesha at 5:30 P.M..

We camped at Sardbeesha overnight. As said earlier this village is situated in a valley. Temperature was 70 Fahrenheit in the evening and it came down to 52 Fahrenheit next morning. After breakfast we took cooked meals with us and started at 5:30 A.M. on Wednesday and by 11:00 we reached Sushp.

Here pomegranates were also available at the rate of one Mun (mound) for one Karaan. We bought three muns. They were very tasty. We ate and restarted at 1:00 when the temperature was 35 Fahrenheit. We passed by Khunak at 3:00 P.M.. Here we collected water from a flowing stream. We arrived at Sufedabad after Maghrib. We ate and left the same night because hereafter we enter an arid region which is preferably crossed during night or in the cool of dawn. Moreover, since the train from Duzdaab (Zahedan) was to leave on Saturday morning, we were eager to reach Duzdaab (Zahedan) by Thursday morning so that we may purchase the needed food for the onward journey. We had also to obtain Iranian and Britsih Government stamps on our passports. We reached Hurmuk at 2:00 A.M., rested and then restarted to arrive at Duzdaab (Zahedan) at 7:15 A.M on 16/9/1926. As before, we had informed the station master (before leaving Mashhad) for arranging a special bogie. Since such bogies are not always available, they were sent from Quetta which was 450 miles away. We obtained the signature of the Britsih Consul on our passports, arranged for eatables etc. and started at 11:30 Saturday morning. Trains for Quetta leave twice a week from here on Wednesdays and Thursdays.

We arrived at Spezand at two next afternoon. We got our compartment disconnected for being joined with the waiting train bound for Hyderabad. The train started at 00:25. On Monday, September 20, 1926 at 1:00 P.M. we reached Hyderabad.

We had to change trains here and to take the narrow gauge train of the Marwad line. As this train was to leave at 3:00 we had two hours at our disposal. Accomodation was already reserved in advance. We kept our luggage in the train and went to the town for the Ziyarat of Hazrat Alis (A.S.) Qadamgaah (footprints). On foot it took us 5 to 7 minutes. We recited ziyarat. There are in all 7 very clear impressions of Hazrats two feet, two knees, two palms and forehead on the marble like hard stone. After returning from there we called for bread, rice, kabab, etc. from a restaurant outside the station and ate. The train started as per schedule.water should be collected either from here or from Mirpur Khaas station which comes after about one and a half hour, as there is a shortage of water upto Marwad.

We arrived Maarwaad at 10:00 A.M. on Tuesday, 21/9/1926 and by 8:00 P.M. we reached Ahmedabad. Gujrat Mail bound for Bombay leaves Ahmedabad at 8:50 P.M. Our seats were reserved.

Alhamdolillah. Safe and sound, we arrived at Bombays Grant Road Station at 7:15 in the morning of Wednesday 22nd of September 1926. The total journey was about 57 days. During this period by the grace of Allah, we did not face any trouble. Now comfort is increasing day by day. So it is hoped that brothers will, henceforth, benefit by the Ziyarat of Shah-e-Khorasaan in greater numbers Inshaallah.

Adapted from the book: "Pilgrimage to Mashhad" by: "Haji Davood Haji Naseer"

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